Drinking Traditions of Genoa: 6 Local Beverages That Define a Port City

Genoa is a maritime city framed by steep Ligurian hills. Terraced vineyards overlook the port, shaped by salty breezes and thin, stony soils. The local palate leans toward herbal, citrusy flavors that echo basil pesto, anchovies, and fragrant olive oil.

In trattorie and bars, wine defines the table while bitters and digestivi close the meal. Aperitivo hour is unhurried, often with focaccia, farinata, and a glass of crisp white. Classic Ligurian bottles sit beside a proudly Genoese amaro, reflecting centuries of seafaring trade.

Just above the port, the Val Polcevera DOC (notably the Coronata subzone) produces the most city-rooted white: Bianchetta Genovese. This is a dry, still wine made primarily from the Bianchetta Genovese grape, often blended with Vermentino or Bosco. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel to preserve freshness, with occasional brief skin contact and a short rest on fine lees. Expect a lean profile at 11.5–12.5% ABV, with aromas of lemon zest, green almond, wild fennel, and a saline lift from sea breezes.

Historically poured in Genoa’s osterie for dockworkers and shopkeepers, Coronata accompanies everyday dishes—pesto alla genovese, fried anchovies, stoccafisso accomodato, and farinata. The terraces here are narrow, cut into marne and sandstone; yields are modest, and vintage variation matters in this marginal, windy corridor. You’ll find Val Polcevera wines by the glass in neighborhood bars from the old town to Pegli, especially at aperitivo between 6 and 8 pm. In cooler months, it remains the reliable, clean counterpoint to rich olive-oil cookery that defines the city’s home kitchens.

Pigato, an aromatic white grown along the western Ligurian coast (Riviera di Ponente), is a staple on wine lists in Genoa. The grape is closely related to Vermentino but tends to show riper stone-fruit and herbal tones. Producers ferment in stainless steel or concrete; some experiment with brief skin maceration or extended lees aging for texture. Typical ABV sits around 12.5–13.5%. The nose suggests peach, broom flower, sage, and pine resin; the palate is medium-bodied, with a saline finish that nods to coastal winds and thin, rocky soils.

Culturally it’s the go-to with pesto—Pigato’s herb-laced profile amplifies basil and pine nuts without overpowering. In Recco, it’s a classic pairing for focaccia di Recco (cheese-filled flatbread), while in Genoa city it’s versatile with stuffed vegetables, octopus salads, and crudo. Pigato dominates summer aperitivo hours on terraces and caruggi-side bars, yet it’s also a year-round restaurant pour. The wine’s maritime freshness and subtle bitterness keep it food-friendly, making it a safe and rewarding order when you want a taste of Ligurian terroir in the heart of the port.

Sciacchetrà is Liguria’s iconic passito from the Cinque Terre, a short train ride from La Spezia. It’s made from hand-harvested Bosco (40–80%), with Albarola and/or Vermentino making up the rest. Grapes dry on racks for weeks to concentrate sugars; after gentle pressing, fermentation proceeds slowly in small vessels, sometimes with neutral wood aging. ABV typically ranges from 13.5–15.5%. Expect amber hues and aromas of dried apricot, fig, acacia honey, candied citrus, and rosemary. The palate is sweet but buoyed by taut acidity and a faintly oxidative, savory edge.

In Genoa, Sciacchetrà is a celebratory pour, often reserved for holiday tables. Locals pair it with aged cheeses or the city’s classic Christmas cake, pandolce genovese. Tiny terraces carved into cliffside slate, relentless sun, and sea spray make every bottle labor-intensive—and precious. You’ll find half-bottles in enoteche around the old port and by-the-glass pours during dessert in better trattorie. It’s a contemplative after-dinner wine, sipped slowly, and a memorable souvenir when you want to carry the coast’s terraces home in your luggage.

From the far western valleys near the French border comes Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, a pale, perfumed red that Genoa restaurants happily pour. Made from the Rossese grape, it’s usually vinified in stainless steel or cement to preserve lift, though some producers use used oak. ABV runs around 12.5–14%. The bouquet is floral—rose petals, wild strawberry—layered with Mediterranean scrub (thyme, bay, marjoram) and a peppery twist. Tannins are fine and lightly grippy; the finish is dry, sapid, and slightly saline.

Culturally, Rossese is a table wine with reach: it travels well to the city thanks to its chameleon pairing ability. In Genoa, it appears slightly chilled alongside rabbit alla ligure (with olives and pine nuts), brandacujun (salt cod and potatoes), or verdure ripiene. Its lithe frame means it refreshes rather than dominates, making it a welcome red choice at lunch. Order it by the glass in bistro-style spots across Genoa or seek bottles from Dolceacqua producers when exploring wine bars; it’s a definitive Ligurian red that rewards seafood pairings as much as meat.

Founded in 1923 in Pegli, a seaside district of Genoa, Amaro Camatti is one of the city’s signature bitter liqueurs. It’s a macerated amaro built on a proprietary blend of herbs, roots, and citrus peels—think gentian, rhubarb, bitter orange, and other Mediterranean botanicals—balanced by sugar and softened alcohol. Bottled at around 25% ABV, it pours deep amber-brown with aromas of caramelized orange, alpine herbs, and a balsamic undertone. The palate is medium-sweet at the attack, then decisively bitter with lingering spice.

Amaro Camatti is the classic end to a Ligurian meal—neat at cool room temperature, or long with soda and a lemon peel. You’ll spot it on back bars from the historic center to the waterfront, often served after fish dinners or Sunday family lunches. The liqueur speaks to Genoa’s trading past, when apothecaries and convents experimented with imported spices and local herbs. Today, it’s a marker of place: order it when you want a digestivo that locals actually drink, not just a generic amaro poured for tourists.

Lumassina is a rare Ligurian white grown mainly in the Savona area, but its bright, lightly sparkling style makes it popular in Genoa’s casual eateries. Produced as a still or frizzante wine, it’s typically fermented in stainless steel and released young to showcase freshness. Alcohol is modest—about 10.5–11.5% ABV. The nose leans toward lemon zest, green apple, crushed herbs, and sea spray; on the palate it’s crisp and linear, sometimes with a faint bitter-almond note that keeps it snappy with food.

In the city, Lumassina fits the “glass with snacks” brief: ideal for fried anchovies, farinata di ceci, panissa, and focaccia genovese. It shines at early-evening aperitivo when you want refreshment without weight, and it’s a friendly companion to summer lunches outdoors. The wine reflects Liguria’s thin soils and maritime climate—high acidity, low alcohol, and honest simplicity. Look for it by the glass in neighborhood bars and seafood trattorie; while not as famous as Pigato or Vermentino, it’s a delightful window into everyday drinking on the Ligurian coast.