What to Eat in Bali (Denpasar, Ubud): A Food Guide

Bali’s food culture is rooted in volcanic soil, irrigated rice terraces, and fish-rich coasts. A warm, humid climate yields coconuts, bananas, and fragrant spice pastes, while village life and temple calendars shape how and when meals are prepared, shared, and blessed.

Breakfast tends to be simple, with coffee, rice cakes, or noodles, while midday plates anchor the day. Denpasar’s early markets drive fresh cooking before the heat rises, and Ubud’s ceremonial rhythm brings communal prep for offerings alongside family meals.

Babi guling is a suckling pig marinated in basa genep, the Balinese all-purpose spice paste built from turmeric, coriander, galangal, garlic, candlenut, lemongrass, and salam leaves. The cavity is often stuffed with cassava leaves and aromatics, then the pig is turned slowly over coconut husk embers until the skin blisters into crackling. The meat stays succulent, scented with citrusy leaves and warm spices, while the drippings flavor rice and sautéed vegetables served alongside. Deeply tied to Balinese Hindu ceremonies and celebrations, this roast symbolizes abundance; it’s commonly prepared for temple anniversaries and family milestones, then sold as portions late morning through lunch in Denpasar and on market days in Ubud, when the crackling is at its best.

Bebek betutu features a whole duck rubbed inside and out with a richly layered paste of shallots, ginger, galangal, turmeric, candlenut, chilies, and palm sugar. Traditionally the duck is wrapped tightly in banana leaves, encased in a banana trunk or husk, and slow-baked in embers for many hours; modern cooks may steam or oven-braise before a short roast. The result is meat that slips from the bone, bathed in golden juices with smoky notes and a gentle sweetness tempered by chilies and lime leaves. Historically associated with ceremonial and royal-era banquets in central Bali, betutu remains a centerpiece for festivals and communal gatherings; in Denpasar and Ubud it’s often shared at dinner, paired with steamed rice, crisp vegetables, and a sharp sambal matah to cut the richness.

Sate lilit differs from skewered cubes by using a finely minced mixture, often fish such as mackerel or tuna, though chicken or pork versions exist. The mince is blended with grated coconut, coconut milk, shallots, chilies, galangal, turmeric, and shredded kaffir lime leaves, then pressed around lemongrass stalks or flat bamboo sticks and grilled over coconut shell charcoal. Each bite is springy and juicy, with perfumed smoke, citrusy leaf aromas, and a light sweetness from coconut balanced by mild heat. Common at roadside grills and communal banjar events, sate lilit also appears in offerings thanks to its malleable form; in Denpasar it’s a popular afternoon or evening snack with rice or lontong, while in Ubud it often accompanies family meals with a side of raw, zesty sambal matah.

Lawar is a finely chopped mix that may include long beans, young jackfruit or banana blossom, grated coconut, and minced pork or chicken, seasoned with fried shallots, shrimp paste, lime leaves, and a warm spice blend. Some village versions fold in fresh pig’s blood (lawar merah) for depth and a distinctive reddish hue, while lawar putih omits it and leans on coconut and mild spices. The texture marries crunch and chew, with coconut sweetness, herbal brightness, and gentle heat; when blood is used, there’s a savory, iron-rich note that demands very fresh, same-day serving. Prepared communally by men in many villages and central to festive meals, lawar is widely eaten at midday with rice; in Denpasar markets and Ubud home kitchens it appears around late morning, especially during major temple festivals when large batches are made and shared.

Nasi campur Bali is a rice plate that showcases variety: a mound of steamed rice ringed by small portions such as shredded ayam sisit or betutu-style chicken, urap sayur (blanched vegetables tossed with spiced grated coconut), a stick of sate lilit, a spoon of lawar, fried peanuts, and sometimes a hard-boiled egg in chili-tomato bumbu. Sambal matah or a fried shallot-chili relish brings bright heat, and crunchy crackers add contrast. The appeal lies in balance—spice and freshness, soft rice and crisp greens—reflecting daily cooking that draws on prepared components from the morning market. Ubiquitous across Denpasar lunch counters and Ubud’s family warungs, nasi campur is a practical midday choice for office workers, artisans, and travelers alike, with selections changing by season, ceremony dates, and whatever the cook can source before the afternoon humidity sets in.

Balinese cuisine blends ceremonial rhythm with market practicality, layering spice pastes, fresh sambals, coconut, and rice in climate-wise ways. Denpasar rises early to cook before the heat, while Ubud mirrors temple calendars with communal prep and sharing. Explore more food guides, destinations, and seasonal planning tools on Sunheron.com.