What to Eat in Alexandria, Egypt

Alexandria’s cuisine is shaped by the Mediterranean, the Nile Delta’s farms, and a temperate climate that favors fresh seafood and plentiful produce. Markets turn over early, with fish landed at dawn and herbs, tomatoes, and cucumbers arriving from nearby fields.

Meals lean on aish baladi (whole-wheat flatbread), tahina, and sharp pickles, with cumin, coriander, garlic, and lemon forming the backbone of flavor. Lunch is the day’s anchor, while evenings invite street snacks along the Corniche when the sea breeze cools the air.

Sayadiyah is a classic Alexandrian fish-and-rice dish built around deeply caramelized onions that tint the rice a warm brown. Firm local fish—often bouri (grey mullet) or sea bream—are seasoned with cumin, black pepper, and salt, then lightly seared. The onions are simmered into a stock with bay leaf and a touch of vinegar or lemon, rice is added, and the fish is nestled on top before the pot bakes until the grains are tender and the fillets flake. The result is aromatic, gently sweet from the onions, with toasty rice at the edges and savory fish throughout. Families cook it for Friday lunches or gatherings, and it appears in simple seafood kitchens near the waterfront. It reflects Alexandria’s long maritime history and shared Eastern Mediterranean traditions while remaining distinctly local in spice and method.

Kebda Eskandarani is thin-sliced beef liver seared fast with garlic, cumin, coriander, and hot green chilies, then brightened with vinegar and lemon. The liver is briefly marinated to tame bitterness, tossed in a hot pan with oil until edges crisp and the center stays tender, and finished with chopped parsley. Packed into aish baladi or a soft roll, it’s often paired with tahina, shatta (chili paste), and crunchy torshi pickles for heat and acidity. The flavor is bold, peppery, and slightly sour, with a pleasing chew that never turns tough when cooked properly. In Alexandria it’s emblematic street fare, fueling students and workers from late afternoon into the evening. The dish speaks to the city’s love of offal done right—simple technique, fresh bread, and assertive spice yielding a satisfying, affordable meal.

Alexandrian hawawshi distinguishes itself by using fresh dough rather than pre-baked bread. Minced beef or a beef–lamb mix is combined with finely chopped onion, parsley, green chilies, and an Egyptian baharat-style blend (often black pepper, coriander, cumin, and a hint of cinnamon). The spiced meat is spread between two rounds of dough, sealed like a pie, brushed with oil or ghee, and baked in a hot oven until the crust turns blistered and crisp while the filling stays juicy. Each bite balances fat, spice, and herbaceous freshness, with a crackling shell giving way to savory aromas. Served hot with arugula, tahina, and pickles, it’s a favored weekend lunch or portable beach snack. The preparation reflects Alexandria’s baking culture and how the city adapts national staples into a firmly local style.

Grilled fish along the Alexandrian seafront centers on sardines and bouri (grey mullet), cleaned, scored, and rubbed with a garlicky mix of cumin, coriander, salt, lemon juice, and oil. Some cooks tuck dill and fresh coriander into the cavity, then grill the fish over charcoal until the skin crisps and the flesh stays moist. The taste is smoky and bright, with citrus lifting the natural oiliness of sardines and the meatier sweetness of mullet. It’s commonly served with salata baladi (tomato–cucumber salad), tahina, and aish baladi, or alongside plain rice. Spring and early autumn, when seas are calm and fish are abundant, are prime times for outdoor grilling, and families often eat it at sunset when the sea breeze cools the Corniche. This everyday ritual underscores Alexandria’s direct connection to its fishing boats and markets.

Feseekh is salted, fermented grey mullet, and renga is smoked herring; together they are fixtures of the spring festival Sham El-Nessim, observed on the Monday after Coptic Easter. For serving, fish are cleaned and filleted, then dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, chopped onions, green chilies, and sometimes tomatoes and parsley. The flavors are intense—feseekh is powerfully salty and umami-rich—while renga adds a gentler smokiness. Both are eaten with aish baladi, green onions, and pickled vegetables during seaside picnics and park gatherings. Authorities regularly advise buying from reliable sources and handling them carefully, reflecting a longstanding awareness around preservation. The tradition ties modern Alexandria to ancient Egyptian spring customs and highlights how the city’s coastal climate encouraged salting and smoking as practical techniques that became festive staples.

Alexandria’s food blends Mediterranean seafood, Delta vegetables, and straightforward spicing into clean, bright flavors. Bread, pickles, tahina, and lemon anchor meals, while grilling and oven-baking suit the city’s breezy climate. It’s a cuisine of markets and shorelines—simple methods, fresh catch, and satisfying street snacks. Explore more regional dishes and plan weather-smart trips with Sunheron’s filters and destination database.