What to Eat in Ghana

Ghana’s cuisine mirrors its geography: fish-rich Gulf of Guinea coasts, a forest belt, and cereal-growing northern savannah. Tropical heat and two rainy seasons shape staples such as cassava, plantain, yam, maize, rice, and millet. Fermenting, smoking, and drying preserve ingredients and concentrate flavor.

Meals often pair a starchy base with soup or stew, eaten communally and frequently by hand. Roadside vendors and morning markets set the daily rhythm, from filling breakfasts to late-night grills. Chilies—Scotch bonnet and kpakpo shito—palm oil, and smoked fish build layered heat and aroma across regions.

Waakye is rice and cowpeas cooked together with dried sorghum leaves, which dye the grains a reddish-brown and add a subtle, tea-like earthiness. Sellers typically mound it on a leaf or paper and layer on sides: gari (toasted cassava granules), shito (black chili sauce with dried fish), boiled egg, fried plantain, spaghetti locally called talia, and sometimes stewed meat or wele (cowhide). The rice stays fluffy while beans remain tender, with a balanced, savory bite sharpened by chilies. Thought to have roots among Hausa communities, waakye has become a national breakfast and early lunch staple, fueling workers and students across cities and towns. You’ll meet it at dawn queues and bustling roadside stands, especially in urban centers, before pots sell out by midday.

Ga kenkey is a fermented maize dough steamed in corn husks, emblematic of coastal Ga communities around Accra. Cooks ferment ground corn for two to three days, partially cook the dough, wrap it tightly, and steam until firm; the result is a mildly sour, dense ball with a resilient chew. It’s traditionally served with fried or grilled fish, sliced onions and tomatoes, and either a raw pepper blend featuring kpakpo shito or a smoky, oil-based black shito made with dried fish. The tang of the kenkey balances the salty fish and the heat of the chili sauces, creating a clean, satisfying contrast. Kenkey is a frequent lunch or dinner choice in coastal towns like Accra and Cape Coast, and its fermentation reflects practical preservation in a humid climate. A related Fante kenkey, wrapped in plantain leaves and sometimes mixed with cassava, is common westward, but Ga kenkey remains the classic standard in the capital.

Fufu in southern Ghana is made by pounding boiled cassava and ripe plantain (or yam) in a large wooden mortar until silky and elastic, then shaped into smooth balls. It’s paired with light soup—nkrakra—a clear, peppery broth built from blended tomatoes, onions, garden eggs (African eggplant), chilies, and stock, often simmered with fish, chicken, or goat. The fufu is soft and slightly sweet from plantain, while the soup is aromatic and spicy; diners pinch off pieces and swallow without chewing, a custom that preserves the texture and heat. This combination is central to Akan households and is especially associated with leisurely Sunday family meals around Kumasi and throughout the forest belt. Light soup is also restorative fare for new mothers or convalescents, prized for its warmth and gentle clarity. Street-side chop bars ladle it throughout the week, but the ritual peak is weekend afternoons and evening gatherings.

Ghanaian jollof rice starts with a deeply reduced tomato-onion-pepper base seasoned with ginger, garlic, bay leaf, and sometimes thyme or curry powder. Rice is simmered in this stew with stock until each grain absorbs color and spice, yielding a reddish, savory dish with a gentle chili glow. When cooked over charcoal or wood, it develops a prized smoky note and crust at the bottom of the pot known locally as kanzo. Vegetables such as carrots and peas may appear, and it’s commonly served with grilled chicken, fried fish, or a simple salad. Jollof anchors celebrations—weddings, birthdays, and community events—across the country, from Accra to Cape Coast, yet it’s equally present in home kitchens for weekday meals. Its place in the broader West African “jollof debate” underscores how strongly Ghanaians identify with their version’s balance of tomato richness and perfumed rice.

Tuo zaafi, or TZ, is a northern Ghana staple formed by vigorously stirring maize flour into boiling water to create a smooth, elastic dumpling; sorghum or millet flour may be used depending on local harvests. It’s eaten with ayoyo, a slippery jute mallow soup sometimes enriched with kuka (baobab leaf powder) and scented with dawadawa, the fermented African locust bean that adds deep umami. A light tomato-meat stew or dried fish often accompanies the greens, making the plate both hearty and mineral-rich. TZ has a clean maize aroma and a pleasantly sticky texture designed to be dipped and swallowed. It reflects the savannah’s cereal economy and cooking tools built for constant stirring over open fires. Commonly served at midday in Tamale and surrounding towns, it anchors social life among Dagomba and neighboring groups, offering energy for farm work and resilience during the long dry season.

Ghanaian cuisine blends preserved coastal seafood, forest tubers, and northern cereals into meals built around starch and boldly seasoned soups or stews. Fermentation, smoking, and chili heat deliver depth without excess complication. For more regional food insights and trip planning by season, explore Sunheron’s guides and filters to connect dishes with the places and weather that shape them.