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What to Eat in Gothenburg

Overview
Explore Gothenburg’s food culture through five iconic dishes: räkmacka, West Coast fish soup, halv special, pickled herring, and a classic shellfish platter.
In this article:

    Introduction

    Gothenburg sits on Sweden’s west coast facing the Skagerrak, with cold, nutrient-rich waters that shape everyday cooking. The maritime climate is mild but windy, so locals lean on warming soups, rye and wheat breads, and pristine shellfish. Meals are seasonal and practical, guided by the catch.
    People eat a hot lunch, pause for fika with coffee and buns, and gather for weekend seafood when autumn waters make shellfish sweetest. Traditions like Midsummer herring spreads and late-summer kräftskiva reflect coastal life. Sustainability and traceable North Sea fish matter to many households.

    Räkmacka: Gothenburg’s Towering Shrimp Sandwich

    The räkmacka is a West Coast classic: an open-faced sandwich stacked with cold-water shrimp (Pandalus borealis), hard-boiled egg, crisp lettuce, sliced cucumber, and a generous spoon of mayonnaise. Many versions add lemon, dill, and a mild horseradish note on soft wheat bread, sometimes lightly buttered for gloss. Shrimp are briefly boiled in salted water, chilled, and hand-peeled to keep their snap and sweetness. The result is briny, slightly sweet, and creamy, with fresh herbs lifting the finish. The sandwich reflects Gothenburg’s café culture and a belief that good shellfish needs little embellishment. It is commonly eaten at lunch or during fika, often paired with coffee or a light beer, and appears year-round thanks to reliable shrimp trawls in nearby waters. Locals expect a generous pile of shrimp, which signals both quality and a pride in coastal produce.

    West Coast Fish Soup with Saffron

    Gothenburg’s fisk- och skaldjurssoppa builds on a rich fish stock and often includes cod or saithe, salmon, mussels, and shrimp, plus leeks, fennel, carrot, and potato. The broth is finished with cream and sometimes saffron, whose floral depth complements the ocean sweetness of shellfish. Cooks start by sweating vegetables, deglazing with white wine, simmering the stock, then adding seafood in stages so each component stays tender. A spoon of aioli or rouille and toasted bread on the side is customary. The soup tastes silky and aromatic, with a gentle anise note from fennel and the warmth of saffron cutting through the North Sea brininess. Rooted in the Bohuslän coast’s mixed catches, it mirrors the region’s practical use of what the boats land. You will encounter it as a weekday lunch and as a year-round staple when the weather turns gusty and cool.

    Halv Special: Mashed-Potato Hot Dog from the Kiosk

    The halv special is Gothenburg’s signature street food: one grilled or boiled sausage tucked in a korvbröd and topped with a scoop of buttery mashed potatoes. Condiments like ketchup, mustard, and chopped or crispy onions are standard; locals often add räksallad, a creamy shrimp salad, for a coastal twist. The mash is classic Swedish potatispuré—potatoes pressed with warm milk and butter until smooth, seasoned simply with salt and white pepper. The contrast defines the bite: snap from the sausage casing, soft bread, and a rich, velvety mash that absorbs sauces. Born at city kiosks in the mid-20th century, it reflects working-class appetites for filling, quick food in a windy port city. A “hel special” doubles the sausage, but the idea stays the same. You’ll find it as a hearty lunch or late-night standby after matches or concerts when warm, portable calories matter.

    Pickled Herring and Matjes with New Potatoes

    Inlagd sill is fundamental across Sweden and firmly rooted in Gothenburg’s coastal traditions. Fillets are cured then steeped in a brine of ättika (spirit vinegar), sugar, and water with spices like allspice, bay leaf, and white pepper; variations include mustard (senapssill) and onion (löksill). Matjessill—young, spiced herring—arrives in early summer and is typically served with freshly boiled new potatoes, sour cream, chives, and hard-boiled egg. The texture is firm yet yielding, with a bright, sweet-sour profile balancing the fish’s richness. Herring sustained West Coast communities long before refrigeration, and it remains central to Midsummer spreads, Christmas julbord, and Easter smörgåsbord. In Gothenburg, it’s eaten at home gatherings, seasonal celebrations, and canteens, where small plates of sill offer clean flavors that pair with crisp breads and butter.

    West Coast Shellfish Platter (Skaldjursplatå)

    The skaldjursplatå showcases the region’s prized shellfish: langoustines (havskräftor), North Sea shrimp, brown crab, oysters, and mussels, served chilled with lemon, dill, and simple dips like mayonnaise or aioli. Shellfish are boiled in lightly salted water—sometimes with a hint of dill—then cooled to preserve snap and sweetness. Oysters may be native flat (Ostrea edulis) or Pacific (Crassostrea gigas), shucked to order for a clean, mineral taste. The platter delivers layers of texture: the delicate chew of shrimp, the sweet, firm langoustine tail, briny oysters, and flaky crab. Autumn through early spring is considered peak, when colder waters yield especially sweet, dense meat after summer algae blooms fade. The tradition reflects Gothenburg’s proximity to the Bohuslän archipelago and long fishing heritage. Families and friends share platters on weekends or celebratory evenings, often with crusty bread to mop up rich juices.

    How Gothenburg Eats Today

    Gothenburg cuisine marries cold-water seafood, honest kiosk fare, and seasonal traditions shaped by a maritime climate. Clean flavors, careful handling of fish, and smart use of dairy and bread define the table. Explore more regional food guides and plan your tastiest trip with Sunheron.com.

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