What to Eat in San Sebastián

San Sebastián sits on the Bay of Biscay, where an oceanic climate brings mild temperatures and steady rainfall. This coastal setting fuels a seafood-forward cuisine, supported by green hills that supply dairy, cider apples, and seasonal vegetables. Locals eat later than many Europeans, with a lively pre-meal aperitivo anchored by pintxos.

Food culture here values technique and produce over ornament. Grilling over embers, gentle confiting in olive oil, and emulsions built from fish gelatin are common methods. People socialize by moving from bar to bar, pairing small bites with txakoli or cider, and save slow, abundant lunches for weekends and family gatherings.

A gilda is a simple skewer that captures San Sebastián’s bar culture in one bite: a pickled guindilla pepper, a briny green olive, and an anchovy fillet threaded on a toothpick, often glossed with extra-virgin olive oil. The balance is deliberate—salty anchovy, mild fruitiness from the olive, and a vinegared, gently spicy guindilla that opens the palate. Created in the late 1940s in the city and named after the 1946 film character Gilda, it became an emblem of the modern pintxo. Locals eat gildas standing at the counter as an aperitivo before lunch or while txikiteo—an evening bar crawl—typically with a glass of txakoli or natural cider.

Bacalao al pil-pil relies on desalted salt cod loins, olive oil, garlic, and a dried guindilla. After soaking the cod for about 48 hours with several water changes, cooks gently confit the fish in oil with sliced garlic, then remove it and swirl the pan so the cod’s collagen emulsifies with the oil into a glossy, ivory sauce. The flavor is clean and deep: silky texture from the emulsion, sweet nuttiness from the garlic, and a whisper of heat from the pepper. Historically tied to Lent and maritime trade routes that brought preserved cod to Basque ports, it remains a benchmark of local technique. People enjoy it at home on weekends or in traditional dining rooms year-round, often as a main course served warm with crusty bread to capture the sauce.

Kokotxas—gelatin-rich hake cheeks—are simmered briefly in a salsa verde made from olive oil, garlic, lots of chopped parsley, fish stock, and a splash of white wine. The cheeks release natural gelatin that lightly thickens the sauce, producing a delicate, green-tinted glaze that clings to the fish without heaviness. The taste is oceanic yet subtle, with herbal brightness and a supple, almost custardy mouthfeel that highlights the premium cut. Once considered a fisher’s delicacy prized for texture, kokotxas are now a festive choice for family meals and special occasions. In San Sebastián they appear as a first course or light main at lunch, especially in cooler months, though high-quality hake makes them available throughout the year.

Txangurro a la donostiarra features spider crab meat sautéed with onion, leek, and tomato, sometimes moistened with a splash of brandy or fish stock, then spooned back into the shell, topped with breadcrumbs, and baked until aromatic. The result is sweet, saline crab accented by soft alliums and gentle caramelization, with a crisp surface for contrast. The dish reflects the Bay of Biscay’s crab season, most active in the cooler months when meat is at its firmest and sweetest. It has long been served for festive meals and family celebrations in San Sebastián, especially in autumn and winter. Locals enjoy it as an entrée at Sunday lunch or during holiday gatherings, where the warm, gratinéed shell arrives from the oven to be shared at the table.

Txuleta is a thick, bone-in beef rib steak, typically from mature cattle, seasoned with coarse salt and grilled over hot embers until the exterior chars and the center stays juicy and rare. The cut’s dry-aged depth, smoky crust, and mineral-rich fat define its flavor, while the texture remains tender with a robust chew. In the Basque ciderhouse tradition, the steak anchors a set menu alongside cod omelet, fried cod with peppers, and walnuts with Idiazabal cheese, enjoyed during the annual cider release from roughly January to April. The txotx ritual—tasting cider straight from the barrel—structures the meal. Around San Sebastián, people gather for this seasonal feast in groups, though txuleta also appears in city grills throughout the year as a centerpiece for long lunches.

San Sebastián’s cuisine stands out for precise technique applied to excellent seafood and meats, served in formats that fit daily life—from one-bite pintxos to long, communal lunches. The city’s oceanic climate and coastal fisheries keep menus seasonal and product-driven. Explore more food traditions, seasonal calendars, and destination ideas with Sunheron’s filters to plan meals and travel by weather and culture.